In our previous article, we discussed the legend of
Krampus, the scary anti-Santa that originated in Germany and mentioned that there are festivals dedicated to him each year during the festive season all over Europe. Such celebrations take place in Austria, Germany, Hungary, Slovenia, and the Czech Republic and involve drunken men dressed as devils, who take over the streets for a Krampuslauf, chasing people around. However, there are also many in
Italy specifically.
Krampus's frightening presence was suppressed for many years as the Catholic Church forbade the raucous celebrations and fascists in World War II Europe found Krampus thought him a deplorable creation of the Social Democrats. Nowadays, however, he is appearing in popular culture more and more often – there was even a feature-length movie about the legend released in theatres in 2015 – and Krampus festivals are also increasingly popular. In fact, it has come to the stage where these events are even being labelled as commercialised and selling out!
Around December 5th, several municipalities and towns in the Tarvisio area, namely such as Tarvisio, Fusine, Coccau, Malborghetto, Camporosso, Rutte, Cave del Predil and Pontebba all have Krampus celebrations. At dusk, a rite takes place that is an allegory of the eternal fight between good and evil. The Krampus figures wear monstrous masks with big red, white or naturally coloured horns, long red tongues and fangs and holding their walking stick and bundles of sticks and wearing big bells and chains to announce their arrival. They appear on the streets, accompanying St. Nicholas, passing through the main road of the town carrying torches and bundles of canes, and dragging a cart housing the Saint.
The figures make guttural sounds and move with aggressive attitudes and chase children, and sometimes the adults, to whip them, make them kneel down and recite prayers. In Pontebba, the Krampus are called Spitz Parkli but the rite is essentially the same as in other towns. In some towns, at the end, a bonfire is lit and the Krampus dance around it. Back in ancient times, the pagan festival did not have the figure of St. Nicholas. It was not until medieval times that he was introduced as a positive moderator.
Silly, raucous and vibrant, the festival is a fun event that takes place in the run up to Christmas. If you are curious about Krampus, just find a
vacation rental in Friuli Venezia Giulia and indulge a creepier festive tradition this or next Christmas.
