Guillermo del Toro’s adaptation of Frankenstein released late last year caused great debate over how well it brought Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s beloved classic novel to life. This, in turn, inspired many to look once more at the life of the great author, her writer friends, and the travels during which the novel was born. For serious fans of these romantic poets, their work, and their tumultuous, soap opera lives, it might be a good time to plan a pilgrimage to some of the incredible spots that inspired the great pieces of writing. Book your villa in Italy and come see some of the scenery and cities that birthed Romantic literature...
When the young Mary Wollstonecraft, her future husband (the Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley), and her stepsister arrived in Geneva, they made fast friends with the glamourous and infamous poet Lord Bryon and his travel companion John Pollidori. They also arrived during the summer of 1816, famously known as the Year Without a Summer due to the borderline apocalyptic weather conditions. So, accordingly, they were largely trapped inside, which led to the challenge among the group to write a ghost story each as entertainment. Frankenstein is, without a doubt, the best product of this challenge. After this trip, the grouping often reconvened in Italy, where the Shelleys lived between 1818 and 1823.
Italy brought the group both freedom and inspiration as well as more tragedy and disaster. Several of Mary and Percy’s children died there, as did the child that Claire (Mary’s stepsister) had with Lord Byron. Percy himself drowned in 1822 in Italy. Despite all of this, Mary still described Italy as, "a country which memory painted as paradise." While they did spend time in various parts of Italy, their “paradise” seems largely to have been Liguria, where there are many key sites to visit for literature lovers. Here are the key stops to include on your literary travels:
Grotta di Lord Byron
Named for the British poet, this cave is where he is said to have swum from, 8km across the Gulf of La Spezia, to Lerici to visit the Shelleys. Byron is also said to have swum in the spot generally and to have gone there to meditate. Incredibly beautiful, it is easy to see why a great poet would be inspired to return regularly. You can find it in a small cove to the west of Porto Venere, surmounted by the elegant Church of San Pietro and the walls of the Porto Venere castle, with naturally-occurring rocky terraces descending into azure waters, and craggy cliffs all around. If you find a vacation rental in Liguria maybe pencil in a swim for some inspiration.
Portovenere
The nearby town itself is also a major hotspot that drew many famous literary figures throughout history. Nicknamed the Pearl of the Cinque Terre and often considered the unofficial sixth town of the Cinque Terre, it can be found in the Gulf of La Spezia, which is itself often referred to as the Golfo dei Poeti (Gulf of the Poets). With truly inspiring walking routes along the cliffs and looking out over the sea, architectural gems positioned strikingly along the coastline, and a pretty town to explore, it is a great base or a day-trip destination to enjoy on holiday in Liguria.
Lord Byron Bar Ristorante
Porto Venere is quite proud of its Lord Byron connection to this day so be sure to pop into this spot on the seafront for a bite or a coffee while in town. It’s a little bit pricier than some places in the area due to its touristy location but how could you resist if you’re already on a Byron tour?
This pretty and colourful seaside village, located in the Bay of Lerici, is where the Shelleys were based throughout their time in the area in 1822. It was, and continues to be, a place that drew artists and writers to it, including Arnold Böcklin, Virginia Woolf, Paolo Mantegazza, and Sam Benelli.
Villa Magni
Located on the promenade to Lerici, this house was a converted monastery with a ground floor used as a boathouse when the Shelleys lived in town. Percy was charmed by the house but Mary found it cramped and the atmosphere oppressive. It was rebuilt in the 1870s, however, and became a rather more impressive building and is now framed by neighbouring structures. So, when you visit on vacation in Liguria, you won’t be able to see it as it was during their time but there are plaques commemorating the famous tenants and you can walk the surrounding area over which those famous writers once trod.
The Seafront of San Terenzo
While today you will see bobbing fishing boats, a pretty beach, and charming surroundings when you look out along the seafront of San Terenzo, this is where Shelley – along with Edward Ellerker Williams and Captain Daniel Roberts – set out on his fateful journey to head south, down the coast to Livorno on the Tuscan Coast. There they met Byron and Leigh Hunt and Shelley discussed the idea of launching a radical magazine called The Liberal. A week later, Shelley and Williams and a boat boy named Charles Vivia set out on their return journey but never arrived. After reports of bad weather and no arrival, a search for the men was undertaken before they eventually washed up on the coast near Viareggio.
Genoa
After Percy’s death, Mary remained in Italy for another year, living in Genoa with Leigh Hunt and his family, seeing Byron regularly, and transcribing his poems. She stayed at Villa Negrotto, a place in a beautiful part of the city, but was so consumed by grief that she could not enjoy it. Eventually, Mary and her remaining living child finally returned to England, though the pair would return to vacation in Italy later in life when Mary could enjoy it once more.
