The unhurried and relaxed atmosphere, absence of the largest tourist crowds, beautiful medieval hill towns, perfect beaches, an deliciously sun-ripened food and wine all make finding a vacation rental in Apulia a good idea for those looking to unwind and get away from it all on their next holiday. However, what might be less apparent to those planning a visit to the, “heel,” of Italy is that it is an ideal destination for history buffs and architecture enthusiasts. With countless archaeological museums, Greek and Roman ruins, astounding cathedrals, and imposing castles and fortresses dotted throughout the region, Apulia has an impossible wealth of cultural heritage and history to explore, though it may not get the same kind of coverage in international media or tourist guides. Endlessly fascinating and without the queues that can plague other destinations in Italy, this is an ideal spot to continue that relaxed holiday vibe without interruption, even while trying to check out local attractions and gems. Among said gems is the storied and picturesque Abbazia di Santa Maria in Cerrate...
Located on the provincial road that connects the towns of Squinzano and Trepuzzi to Casalabate,
the Abbazia di Santa Maria a Cerrate, or Abbey of Santa Maria in Cerrate, is a charming architectural gem and one of the most significant examples of the Otranto Romanesque style. Dating to the 12th century, legend tells us that the building was founded after Tancredi d'Altavilla, Count of Lecce and later the King of Sicily, stumbled upon the site during a hunting trip and saw the Madonna appear between the horns of a deer. While this story gives us the name of the abbey today, the real story is that the Norman prince Bohemond I of Antioch had actually already established a Greek Orthodox monastery of great importance on the site that was a key centre of learning some time between the 11th and 12th centuries. Continuing to produce manuscripts, the monastery also grew in size and prestige through farming in the following centuries. Unfortunately, a fateful attack launched on the thriving monastery by Turkish pirates in 1711 was utterly disastrous for the monks and their way of life and caused the building to be completely abandoned until the 20th century.
Then, finally, in 1965, restoration of the long deserted and ruined building was commissioned by the Province of Lecce. In 2012, this was continued under the FAI (the Fondo Ambiente Italian, an Italian non-profit organisation that preserves and promotes the country's artistic and natural heritage) and the abbey was entrusted to them on a loan-for-use basis by the province, allowing this wonderful beauty to be opened to visits by the public. Work still continues at the site today but, thankfully, visits are not hampered by this.
The site is today characterised by a charming Romanesque church with a tripartite façade that is marked by a central portal dating to the 13th century, the intrados of which have reliefs of scenes of the Annunciation, Visit to Saint Elizabeth, the Magi, and the Flight in Egypt. This central portal is flanked by a small lancet window to either side and is topped by a little rose window. To the left of the building a portico with cylindrical and polygonal columns supporting figured capitals in white Leccese stone also dating to the 1200s is attached and in front of this an ornamental well from the 16th century. Inside, the three bay format of the façade is mirrored with three naves. Notable decorative details include the canopy over the main altar that dates to 1269 and the 13th and 14th century Byzantine frescoes in the apses, arches, and along the walls. However, some of the original frescoes had to be moved to a nearby museum during the restoration process of the building so that they could be displayed more safely and better maintained.
A true Romanesque masterpiece and pretty as a picture, this lovely architectural gem is a must-see for enthusiasts who are on vacation in Apulia and looking to visit some of the most extraordinary attractions in this part of Italy.
the Abbazia di Santa Maria a Cerrate, or Abbey of Santa Maria in Cerrate, is a charming architectural gem and one of the most significant examples of the Otranto Romanesque style. Dating to the 12th century, legend tells us that the building was founded after Tancredi d'Altavilla, Count of Lecce and later the King of Sicily, stumbled upon the site during a hunting trip and saw the Madonna appear between the horns of a deer. While this story gives us the name of the abbey today, the real story is that the Norman prince Bohemond I of Antioch had actually already established a Greek Orthodox monastery of great importance on the site that was a key centre of learning some time between the 11th and 12th centuries. Continuing to produce manuscripts, the monastery also grew in size and prestige through farming in the following centuries. Unfortunately, a fateful attack launched on the thriving monastery by Turkish pirates in 1711 was utterly disastrous for the monks and their way of life and caused the building to be completely abandoned until the 20th century.
Then, finally, in 1965, restoration of the long deserted and ruined building was commissioned by the Province of Lecce. In 2012, this was continued under the FAI (the Fondo Ambiente Italian, an Italian non-profit organisation that preserves and promotes the country's artistic and natural heritage) and the abbey was entrusted to them on a loan-for-use basis by the province, allowing this wonderful beauty to be opened to visits by the public. Work still continues at the site today but, thankfully, visits are not hampered by this.
The site is today characterised by a charming Romanesque church with a tripartite façade that is marked by a central portal dating to the 13th century, the intrados of which have reliefs of scenes of the Annunciation, Visit to Saint Elizabeth, the Magi, and the Flight in Egypt. This central portal is flanked by a small lancet window to either side and is topped by a little rose window. To the left of the building a portico with cylindrical and polygonal columns supporting figured capitals in white Leccese stone also dating to the 1200s is attached and in front of this an ornamental well from the 16th century. Inside, the three bay format of the façade is mirrored with three naves. Notable decorative details include the canopy over the main altar that dates to 1269 and the 13th and 14th century Byzantine frescoes in the apses, arches, and along the walls. However, some of the original frescoes had to be moved to a nearby museum during the restoration process of the building so that they could be displayed more safely and better maintained.
A true Romanesque masterpiece and pretty as a picture, this lovely architectural gem is a must-see for enthusiasts who are on vacation in Apulia and looking to visit some of the most extraordinary attractions in this part of Italy.
Photo credits
Picture 1: Marzoide88 / CC BY-SA 3.0
Picture 1: Marzoide88 / CC BY-SA 3.0